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Charcuterie Orgy at The Barbed Rose in Alvin

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I made my way down to Alvin the other day to continue my amazement at what the folks – and especially the chefs – at The Barbed Rose are up to. I’d heard rumors that executive chef Jason Chaney had some new help in the kitchen, and that new guy Jay Peek was less about cooking than smoking and curing in the French characuterie tradition. It’s interesting to me that  today’s chefs find these ancient processes so intriguing – intriguing enough to make the stuff themselves when they certainly could take a shortcut and buy it. The same quality just wouldn’t be there, chefs Jason and Jay assured me.

In a single carnivorous orgy, I tasted nifty smoked and cured meats from the German, Italian and American traditions – and now at The Barbed Rose, you can too. There’s a spicy hot link with habanero pepper, plus German favorites like the smoked summer sausage in the style of Leipzig. Italian meats, often called salumi, are all over the delicious map at the Barbed Rose, from bresaola to lonzo, pepperoni to pancetta. And from the American way of doing things, I love the bacon that’s smoked for 12 hours and the Kobe hot dog, served on a housemade pretzel bun with a perky housemade pickle relish.

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About John DeMers

I've been a journalist and author forever. My favorite single word in the English language is "foodandwine." This spirit drives my 45 published books and my weekly radio show heard in Houston, Dallas and Austin.

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