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A New Breakfast Preview at Cafe Express

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With the rollout of new breakfast items on schedule for all 18 Cafe Express locations on March 15, the good folks behind it all invited me in for a preview. Ten or twelve items showed up hot, melty and bubbly over about an hour, some of them old but most of them new. And many of the new ones, like the Cafe Croissant (scrambled eggs, goat cheese, roasted tomatoes and basil) pictured above, turned up between slices of some kind of really great bread.

For this Breakfast BLT and other breakfast sandwiches, a love-child of the fast food industry since the ’70s, the key is portability – considering how many breakfasts in America these days are consumed not sitting down. According to F&B Manager Greg Martin, whose experience reaches back to Cafe Express under Robert Del Grande and Lonnie Schiller – both before and after their adventure selling to Wendy’s – this means every ingredient must be first-rate. Now under the ownership of Redstone, which partnered with Schiller-Del Grande in the rescue from Wendy’s and operates the Houstonian among other impressive properties, that means artisan breads baked in Denmark (of all places) and finished hot and fresh in each of the 18 stores. The Breakfast BLT, by the way, offers bacon, scrambled eggs, cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato and mayo on a whole-wheat roll. But no, no matter where it’s baked, it’s not called a Danish…

And like the Breakfast BLT, the Cafe Express Morning Club is an a.m. spin on a p.m. classic. Its buttery brioche carries smoked turkey, bacon, scrambled eggs and jack cheese to your table. Or, presumably, to your office (they cater) or your car (they do takeout). I explain to Greg Martin, when my mouth isn’t full, that my only regular breakfast is a dark, thick liquid that arrives in a mug. He insisted that, come March 15, all that is about to change.

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About John DeMers

I've been a journalist and author forever. My favorite single word in the English language is "foodandwine." This spirit drives my 45 published books and my weekly radio show heard in Houston, Dallas and Austin.

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