If your doctor has suggested, politely or otherwise, that you try to get by on “just a salad” at mealtime now and again, you might think of my friend whose doctor cut him back to one glass of wine a day. He always made sure to track down the biggest damn glass he could find before he filled it up.
That, of course, brings us to the salad known to all as the BRC Pub Burger Bowl.
Until your doctor catches on – and it’s a safe bet he or she eventually will – this thing should definitely be your salad of choice. It is a salad, really: It has garden greens in it. The only trouble is that these greens are tossed with a lush smoked cheddar ranch dressing, which might be Objection No. 1. Even that, however, will turn to silence when anyone realizes that this salad is tossed with avocado chunks, slabs of bacon, a smattering of fries (not even mentioned on the menu!) and cut-up pieces of an entire bacon-cheese burger.
“It ain’t exactly pretty,” offers BRC executive chef Jeff Axline, who comes up with such dreams in cahoots with partners Shepard Ross and Lance Fegen. “But it sure is good. Lance keeps saying to me: Press it down, press it down. But these buns from Slow Dough, they keep puffing right back up again.”
By this point, Axline probably knows how to handle Fegen anyway. He worked as Chef Lance’s right-hand at Trevisio in the Medical Center and later helped him and Ross open Glass Wall in the Heights, the success story that probably gave them several things required to open the new BRC on Shepherd just four blocks south of Washington Avenue.
Served in an oversized white bowl, the trailer park-perfect burger confection is sure to take its place alongside BRC’s charred pimento cheese dip, the state fair griddled cheese sandwich (with pulled beef short rib) and the frozen Snicker beignets with chocolate dipping sauce as favorites, especially as the beer flows and the late night keeps getting later.
“Some of the burger bowl’s biggest fans are the ladies, who like to go away thinking they’ve eaten something healthy,” Ross says with a wicked grin. “I kid you not.”